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FOOD AND DRINK |
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Finnish food can be pricey, but you can keep a rein on the expense
by self-catering. Though tempered by many regulations, alcohol is more
widely available than in much of the rest of Scandinavia
Food
Though it may at first seem a stodgy, unsophisticated cuisine, Finnish
food is an interesting mix of Western and Eastern influences, with
Scandinavian-style fish specialities and exotic meats like reindeer and
elk alongside dishes that bear a Russian stamp - pastries, and
casseroles strong on cabbage and pork. If you're staying in a hotel,
breakfast ( aamiainen ) is a sumptuous affair, a buffet of herring, eggs,
cereals, cheese, salami and bread. Later in the day you can lunch on the
economical snacks sold in ubiquitous market halls ( kauppahalli ) or in
their adjoining cafeterias, where you are charged by the weight of food
on your plate. Most train stations and some bus stations and
supermarkets also have cafeterias proffering a selection of snacks and
light meals, and the Grilli and Nakkikioski street stands turn out
burgers and hot dogs for ¬2.50-3.50. Otherwise, campus cafeterias or
mensas are the cheapest places to get a hot dish, with a choice of three
menus, with bread and coffee, for ¬2-3.40. Theoretically you have to be
a student but you are unlikely to be asked for ID, though if you can
prove you're a student, a discount is in order. In a regular restaurant,
or ravintola , lunch ( lounas ) is the cheapest option, many places
offering a lunchtime buffet table ( voileipäpöytä or seisova pöytä )
stacked with a choice of traditional goodies for a set price of around
¬8.50-13. A baari , an unlicensed restaurant with a range of Finnish
dishes and snacks, is another low-cost option, although most close early
- at 5 or 6pm. Pizzerias, too, are widespread, serving "lunch specials"
for ¬6-9.
For evening meals you'll always have a couple of options. In smaller
towns there will no doubt be cheap pizzerias or grillis or bars and
ravintolas often serve standard plates of meat and two veg. In Helsinki
and the big towns there are usually a range of options from Chinese to
reindeer steak. Prices will vary from ¬6 for a cheap pizza to ¬100 for a
slap up meal in a top restaurant.
Drink
Whilst the attitude to drinking can seem austere Finland has a truly
staggering problem with alcoholism and in some of the smaller towns bars
can be quite depressing places. In Helsinki and the bigger towns,
however, the drinking culture is more sophisticated and you'll be able
to find numerous appealing places to have a jar or two.
Beer ( olut ) falls into three categories: "light beer" (I-Olut), like a
soft drink; "medium strength beer" ( Keskiolut , III-Olut), perceptibly
alcoholic, sold in shops and cafés; and "strong beer" (A-Olut or IV-Olut),
on a par with the stronger European beers, and only available at fully
licensed restaurants, clubs and ALKO shops. Even the smallest town will
have one, and prices don't vary. Strong beers, like Lapin Kulta Export,
Karjala, Lahden A, Olvi Export and Koff porter, cost about ¬1.35 for a
300ml bottle. Imported beers go for ¬1.50-2 a bottle. As for spirits ,
Finlandia vodka is ¬27 and Koskenkorva, a popular rough form of vodka,
¬25 per litre.
Most restaurants have a full licence, and some are actually frequented
more for drinking than eating. To add to the confusion, some so-called "pubs"
are not licensed. Bars are usually open until midnight or 1am and
service stops half an hour before closing. You have to be 18 to buy beer
and wine, and 20 for spirits. Expect to queue for entry into popular
bars as you'll only be allowed in if there's a seat free - no standing
allowed. There's always either a doorman ( portsari ) - whom some tip (usually
¬1) on leaving - or an obligatory cloakroom (again usually ¬1).
The main - and cheapest - outlet for alcohol of any kind is the
government-run ALKO shops (Mon-Thurs 10am-5pm, Fri 10am-6pm, Sat
9am-2pm; closed Sat May-Sept). Even the smallest town will have one and
prices don't vary.
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