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JYVASKYLA |
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JYVÄSKYLÄ is a pleasant low-key lake town which houses a big
university - giving it a youthful feel - as well as being home to an
array of buildings created by legendary Finnish architect Alvar Aalto .
He grew up here and opened his first office in the town in 1923, and his
handiwork - a collection of buildings spanning his entire career -
provides an excellent showcase of his work.
Aalto left Jyväskylä in 1927 for fame, fortune and Helsinki, but
returned in the 1950s to work on what by the 1970s had grown into the
Jyväskylä University . Although Aalto died before his ambitious plan for
an Administration and Cultural Centre was complete, the scheme is still
under construction along Vapaudenkatu. Beside the uninspiring ex-police
station - unveiled in 1970 - stands the city theatre that epitomises the
style Aalto created.
On the hill running down from the university towards the lake,
Jyväsjärvi, stands two of the towns most important museums. At the
request of the town authorities rather than through vanity, Aalto built
the Alvar Aalto Museum at Alvar Aallon Katu 7 (Tues-Sun 11am-6pm, Aug
until 8pm; ¬5, free on Fri). The architect's best works are obviously
out on the streets, but there is a reasonable collection of plans,
photos and models interspersed with an interesting selection of
Aalto-designed furniture. Aalto also contributed to the exterior of the
nearby Keski-Suomen Museo (Museum of Central Finland; Tues-Sun 11am-6pm,
Aug until 8pm; ¬3.40, free on Fri), which contains two exhibitions: one
devoted to Middle Finland - well designed but with no English
translations - and the other representing each decade of the twentieth
century through various domestic artifacts.
Near the bus and train stations the tourist office , at Asemakatu 6
(mid-June-Aug Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9am-3pm; Sept-May Mon-Fri
9am-5pm, Sat 9am-2pm; tel 014/624 903, www.jyvaskyla.fi ) can supply a
useful free leaflet on the local Aalto buildings. For free Internet
access try the pubic library at Vapaudenkatu 39-41 (Mon-Fri 11am-8pm,
Sat 10am-3pm; June-Aug Mon-Fri 11am-7pm) - bookings required. For
accommodation , the central, family-run Hotel Milton , Hannikaisenkatu
27-29 (tel 014/3377 900; £10-15/$16-24/¬18-27), is a good choice, while
for a bit more luxury, try the Scandic Hotel Jyväskylä at Vapaudenkatu
73 (tel 014/330 3000; £25-30/$40-48/¬45-54). The local youth hostel ,
Laajari (tel 014/624 885; £10-15/$16-24/¬18-27), is 4km from the centre,
at Laajavuorentie 15 - take bus #25 from Vapaudenkatu.
For eating options try the pizza establishments along the main streets
or Kissanviikset at Puistokatu 3, which serves good fish dishes at
lunchtime. For nightlife check out the hard-drinking and hard-chess
playing in the smoky Ruthin ravintola , Seminaarinkatu 19, or if you
want your evening to swing try the Jazz Bar on Kavelakatu.
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