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KUOPIO |
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Superficially cosmopolitan, with smart broad streets and modern
buildings, KUOPIO is the only city in a vast expanse of countryside, and
its earthy peasant heritage is always felt: traditional dress is common,
sophistication is rare, and everything takes a back seat to unbridled
revelry when the night comes.
All the sights are within the immediate central area, with one
exception: the wonderful Orthodox Church Museum , Karjalankatu 1
(May-Aug Tues-Sun 10am-4pm; Sept-April Mon-Fri noon-3pm, Sat & Sun
noon-5pm; ¬3.40), set on the brow of the hill at Kuopio's northwest
corner. The museum houses many objects from the nearby Valamo Monastery,
and it's easy to spend several hours wandering around elaborate icons,
gold-embossed Bibles and other extravagant items. Back in the centre,
the block formed by Kirkkokatu and Kuninkaankatu holds the Kuopio
Open-Air Museum (mid-May to mid-Sept daily 10am-5pm, Wed until 7pm;
mid-Sept to mid-May Tues-Sun 10am-3pm; ¬2.50), whose buildings, still in
their original locations, have interiors decked out to show housing
conditions of ordinary townspeople from the late eighteenth century to
the 1930s. Another interesting old building, J.V. Snellman's Home , is
situated nearby at Snellmaninkatu 19 (mid-May to mid-Sept daily
10am-5pm, Wed till 7pm; rest of year by appointment, call 017/182624;
¬7). Snellman lived here after the Swedish-speaking ruling class
expelled him from his university post in 1843; he became head of the
local school and continued his struggle to have Finnish granted the
status of official language.
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