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PORVOO |
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One of the oldest towns on the south coast, PORVOO , 50km east of
Helsinki, with its narrow cobbled streets lined by small wooden
buildings, gives a sense of the Finnish life which predated the
capital's bold squares and Neoclassical geometry - although its elegant
riverside setting and unhurried mood mean it's inevitably popular with
tourists.
Close to the station, visit the preserved Johan Ludwig Runeberg House ,
Aleksanterinkatu 3 (May-Aug Mon-Sat 10am-4pm, Sun 11am-5pm; Sept-April
closed Mon & Tues; ¬4), where the famed Finnish poet lived from 1852
while a teacher at the town school. Despite writing in Swedish, he
greatly aided the nation's sense of self-esteem, and one of his poems
provided the lyrics for the Finnish national anthem. Across the road,
the Walter Runeberg Gallery (May-Aug Mon-Sat 10am-4pm, Sun 11am-5pm;
Sept-April Wed-Sun 11am-3pm; ¬2.50) has a collection of sculpture by
Johan Runeberg's third son, one of Finland's more celebrated sculptors.
The old town is built around the hill on the other side of
Mannerheimkatu, crowned by the fifteenth-century Tuomiokirkko (May-Sept
Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat 10am-2pm, Sun 2-5pm; Oct-April Tues-Sat 10am-2pm,
Sun 2-4pm), where Alexander I proclaimed Finland a Russian Grand Duchy
and convened the first Finnish Diet. This, and other aspects of the
town's past, can be explored in the Porvoo Museum (May-Aug daily
10am-4pm; Sept-April Wed-Sun noon-4pm; ¬2.50) at the foot of the hill in
the main square, by way of a selection of furnishings, musical
instruments and oddities largely dating from the days of Russian rule.
Buses run all day taking about 90 minutes from Helsinki to Porvoo, and a
one-way trip costs around ¬25. There's also a boat , the J. L. Runeberg
, which sails through the summer (June-Aug Tues, Wed, Sat & Sun, also
Mon in July, Fri July to mid-Aug) from Helsinki's South Harbour at 10am,
arriving in Porvoo at 1.15pm and leaving at 4pm; a return fare is ¬25
with tickets available from a booth at the quayside by Helsinki's market
square ( kauppatori ). The tourist office is opposite the bus station ,
at Rihkamakatu 4 (July & Aug Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat & Sun 10am-4pm; rest
of year Mon-Fri 10am-4.30pm, Sat 10am-2pm; tel 019/5202316,
www.porvoo.fi ), and has free maps of the town. Spending a night in
Porvoo leaves you well-placed to continue into Finland's southeastern
corner, though rates are steep. There is, however, a hostel , open all
year, at Linnankoskenkatu 1-3 (tel 019/5230012; £10-15/$16-24/¬18-27),
and a campsite (tel 019/581967; June to mid-Aug), 2km from the town
centre. For something to eat check out La Carte at Kirkkokatu 1, which
serves French-Scandic cuisine for about ¬15 a head, and has a good wine
list.
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