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ROVANIEMI |
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Relatively easy to reach by rail from Ostrobothnia or Kainuu,
ROVANIEMI is touted as the capital of Lapland, though it's more an
administrative than cultural capital, and the tourists who arrive on day-trips
from Helsinki expecting sleighs and tents are normally disappointed. The
wooden huts of old Rovaniemi were razed by departing Germans at the
close of World War II, and the town was completely rebuilt during the
late 1940s. Alvar Aalto's bold but impractical design has the roads
forming the shape of reindeer antlers - fine if you're travelling by
helicopter but it makes journeys on foot far longer than they need be.
Rovaniemi is a likeable enough town, though most visitors only use it as
a short-term stopover, or to study Sami culture.
Aside from eating reindeer in the local restaurants, the best way to
prepare yourself for what lies further north is to visit the 172m-long
glass tunnel of Arktikum , Pohjoisranta 4 (May-Aug daily 10am-6pm; Sept-April
closed Mon; ¬10), symbolically pointing north across Ounasjoki from its
surrounding landscape of arctic flora. Subterranean galleries along one
side house the Provincial Museum of Lapland , a thoughtful museum
placing genuine Sami crafts and costumes alongside the imitations sold
in souvenir shops to emphasize the romanticization of their culture. It
also demonstrates the changes in the use of tools and clothing - anoraks
and Wellington boots have replaced traditional apparel, which has caused
a young generation of Sami to be plagued by rheumatism and foot trouble.
Across the corridor is the Arctic Centre , which gives a thorough
treatment of all things circumpolar, from Inuit and Aleut languages to
mineral exploration and hunting from kayaks decked out in walrus-gut
waterproofs.
The remaining sights are on the south side of town near the bus and
train stations , where pristine Aalto-designed civic buildings line
Hallituskatu. Lappia House (pre-booked guided tours only call
016/3562096) has a theatre and concert hall, and next door, the library
(Mon-Thur 11am-8pm, Fri 11am-5pm, Sat 10am-4pm) has a Lapland Department
with a staggering hoard of books in many languages covering every
Sami-related subject. Most other things of interest are outside town,
not least the Arctic Circle , 8km north and connected by the half hourly
bus #8 from the bus station - though there's not much to see on arrival.
Near the circle and served by the same buses, is Santa Claus Village
(daily: Dec & June-Aug 9am-7pm; rest of the year 10am-5pm; free), a
large log cabin where you can meet Father Christmas all year round and
leave your name for a Christmas card from Santa himself. South of the
Arctic Circle, the Midnight Sun is visible from town for a couple of
weeks either side of midsummer, the best vantage points being the
striking "Lumberjack's Candlestick" bridge or atop the conifer and
mosquito-clad hill, Ounasvaara.
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